From: wi.4837@n7kbt.rain.com
Newsgroups: alt.sex.bondage
Subject: On Clothespins
Message-ID: <C0t95z.2JE@n7kbt.rain.com>
Date: 13 Jan 93 21:03:35 GMT
Organization: Anonymous Contact Service @ N7KBT
Lines: 340
Or, 'More Than You Might Have Wanted To Know About Clothespins', collected
from various [alas, I did not record names] authors on this newsgroup,
several publications, and few of my own invention. It is interesting to
note how many of the new ideas one supposes to be one's own recur again
and again, perhaps this compilation will collect the most common, allowing
others to create new ideas rather than repeating older ones. Examples
provided are for females, but the concepts are not truly gender-specific.
A recent simple device for directly measuring clamping force of
clothespins and other springclamps is described at the end of this
posting. No doubt others will add their own favorites, a future
publication of '101 Things to Do With Clothespins' would be an amusing
project. As always, I have done what I might to suggest safety, proceed
with caring.
'grim'
_A Table Of Contents_
Wood versus plastic:
Clamping Tightness ["too hard!", "too soft!", "just right!"]:
'Standard' Techniques [suggestions for beginners and others]:
More places you might like to try:
'Zippers' and other tailoring:
Modifying pins for more intense sensations:
A design for testing the clamping force of clothespins:
Definitions using an open clothespin diagram.
hole spring
| /
________________________________
\__n__0________________________/ leg
__u__0________________________
/______________________________\ leg
| |
clamping area
#Wood versus plastic:
Wooden clothespins are a bit kinder and have less tendency to abrade,
thus I would suggest starting with them. Plastic clothespins tend to
have much smaller ribbed gripping surfaces, and a 'feel' much stronger
than the equivalent wooden ones. Extremely small plastic clothespins
are very nasty indeed, and many may be used in the same area for
greater intensity.
Wooden clothespins are available in several qualities, with the older,
thicker ones being a bit better IMHO, and the thin ones more likely to
splinter or have sharp edges. As one may purchase 50 of these for
perhaps $4 American, these rank among least expensive of toys, and
among the most versatile. Almost anything one may do with fingertip
squeezing may be done with clothespins, and several things that cannot
be accomplished with one's fingers may easily be done with these tiny
household beauties. Of course, this does leave your hands free for
other activities....
#Clamping Tightness ["too hard!", "too soft!", "just right!"]:
Unmodified, most wooden clothespins of quality grip with between 4 and 6
pounds of pressure over an area of 3/16 X 1/2 inches. This is too much for
some, and not enough for others. The grip is best increased by wrapping
the clamping end with elastic bands, and decreased in several ways. The
simplest is by weakening the springs by clamping something that requires
the clothespin to be open to its limit for several days. This will reduce
the clamping pressure by several pounds, dependent on the initial strength
of the spring, the width of the opening, and the length of time one allows
for stretching. Carefully pulling the jaws wider than they would normally
travel will stretch the spring quickly, but this is harder to control.
Wrapping elastic bands around the legs of the clothespin will resist
the tension of the spring and weaken the clamping force without
permanently weakening the spring.
If you are willing to spend a bit more time, drill straight through both
legs of the clothespin legs about one third from the end and thread a bolt
through the holes, tightening a wing nut on the bolt will allow for
wonderfully precise changes in clamping pressure, since the bolt-nut
combination adjustably limits the travel of the legs. It is often best to
drill a larger hole or even a slot in one leg for ease of adjustment. This
requires perhaps 2 minutes per clothespin and is well worth the time, as
the pressure may be slowly increased as hir ability to enjoy the sensation
improves. Weights may be hung off of the clothespin as well by hooks or
cords attached to such holes and hardware.
#'Standard' Techniques [suggestions for beginning and advancing]:
One classical place to begin with clothespins is the nipple, but there are
many possible variations to this alone. The first grip recommended most
often is with the clothespin pointing straight onto the nipple, not from
the side, gripping the base of the nipple, not the tip, and perhaps a bit
of areola as well. This does not have the same sort of 'bite' as grasping
the nipple alone may, and often does wonderful things for sensitivity
without causing severe pain. It is best to start with a rather weak
clamping pressure and work upwards, and if you are just beginning, try not
to leave the pins on for too long [start with what sie can endure, and
eventually work up to perhaps twenty minutes [I prefer not to leave them
on longer than this, YMMV]. The longer the clamping time, the more fierce
the sensation caused by removing the pressure. The increased sensitivity
afterwards may last from minutes to many hours, depending on the person,
the clamping force and time; and several things might be done in this
period to use that sensitivity to advantage [beating with the proverbial
'wet noodle' or even a featherduster is quite effective]. Ice applied
immediately after removing the clothespin may reduce the length and
severity of the sensation if that is desired.
You might try putting the clothespin on sideways, with the nipple centered
in the the hole in the clamping area. If you do this far enough back on
the nipple base or areola, the tip of a large nipple will remain exposed
for other things, such as ice, nibbling, or smaller clips and clamps.
You might try clamping the nipple only, or work gradually out from the
areola as hir ability to enjoy more increases. Tapping or lightly brushing
the tips of attached clothespins is effective, and a light vibrator may
also be used if taped to the legs of the clothespin.
One simple device works nicely for both nipples at once on all but the
smallest female breasts. Take two clothespins and glue the outsides of the
legs together with a slight overlap so:
__________________________________
\_________________________0__n___/
__________________________0__u___
/_________________________________\
glue
________________________________
\__n__0________________________/
__u__0________________________
/______________________________\
then use the clamping ends to grasp both nipples from the sides at once.
The pull will vary depending on breast size, but some will be present,
thus causing her to jiggle her breasts gently can be fun, and of course,
this is often just the thing to add to tickling. Size differences may
require an additional short piece of wood to link the pair together,
length best found by experiment.
Several people have mentioned pulling on clothespins or clips with
strings, chains or cords. The nipple itself may also be encircled by a
thin cord or thread, I have used unwaxed dental floss to good effect.
Avoid slipknots for the obvious reason that they might tighten too far in
use.
Pulling off a clothespin is more painful than squeezing the legs to remove
it gently, and is the basis for several devices below. Again, the longer
one leaves them attached, the stronger the result. It is also possible
to flick off clothespins with a flogger or some other striking device, and
combining the two is an interesting way to add some bright 'explosions' to
the sensations of a 'standard' flogging without switching instruments or
striking harder. When doing this near the front of the body, some form of
eye protection is needed, a heavy blindfold will serve nicely.
#Other places you might wish to try:
Many areas of the body might do well with a bit of clamping either for
sensation or visual appeal. Other parts of the breast, and any portion of
the torso and limbs where one may gather a bit of skin come immediately to
mind. In view of the tiny expense, one might use many dozens at one time.
Specific classic variations include but are not limited to:
a row, circle [or other sigil of your choice] on the belly or back
one or more on the labia or other areas of 'wabbliebits' [tm-STella]
the inner thigh or arm
a belt of clothespins round the waist
small clothespins on the webbing of fingers and toes
the earlobe [the dangling legs of the clothspin brush the neck nicely]
behind the knees and inside the elbows
a circle round the thighs as a reminder to keep them spread
#'Zippers' and other tailoring:
Drill a hole through one leg of at least one dozen clothespins, thread
them on a thong or cord, knotting them at small intervals, and you have
created a zipper. One derivation for the name will become obvious the
first time one tugs swiftly on one end of the cord and hears the sound
made by the pins pulling off sensitive skin [there may be other sounds as
well]. The spacing may vary, longer ones may be made, and double rows of
20 or so clothespins are common. The inside of the upper arm or thigh are
rather traditional for these, but most areas of the body are available,
one of my own favorites being the side of the body normally covered by the
arms, after binding the arms over the head. Ticklish and sensitive.
A 'tri-zipper' is my own name for three of these single zippers with one
end of each fastened to a central ring [a keyring will do, but try to find
something a bit larger]. The ring is centered high on the belly, with the
farthest pins attaching to the nipples and 'wabbliebits' [tm-STella],
perhaps with a bit of spiral towards the center of each region, and the
nearest ones fastening to the skin near the center. The look of horrified
anticipation as you grasp the ring and begin to pull slowly outwards, each
pin popping off in turn as the three zipper lines move towards the most
sensitive areas is not to be missed, while pulling faster often causes
volumes of coloratura shrieking.
Another design I have not seen elsewhere I have dubbed the Reverse Garter,
'reverse' in the sense of pulling down rather than up. Two bands of
non-stretch material [webbing, fabric or leather will do] with buckles or
other adjustable fasteners are put high up around each thigh, perhaps five
inches from the pubis, although this dimension will vary. Sewn or riveted
onto the band is a close [almost touching] row of four clothespins on the
inside of the leg, with the clamping ends pointing upwards. These are
first attached to the outer labia, then the band is adjusted to a position
to gently stretch the lips and tightened so as not to be pulled further up
the thigh. Intriguing in itself, and provides both more pull and an
interesting display when she spreads her legs. Delectable. [N.B. There are
major sensation differences between the outer lips and more inner tissues,
grasping these areas with the same force is likely to cause considerably
more pain than anticipated.]
#Modifying pins for more intense sensations:
The simplest method is increasing the clamping force with one or more
elastic bands round the clamping end, but there are several others.
Purchase some short 1/8th inch diameter brads or finish nails, and
a drill of the same diameter. Drill three holes through the clamping
end of two clothespins. Sand, grind, or file the ends of the brads to
a smooth *ROUND* tip then push them through so they protrude into the
clamping area while the clothespin is held open 1/8th inch. Use a drop
of strong glue to hold the brads in place, and saw off the excess
length from the outside of the pins after the glue dries. This is as
it might appear when completed [end view of clamping section].
________
||| |||
||| ||| Clothespin is not closed, there is
||----|| -1/8 inch gap held open by brad ends
---||---
| || |
| || |
--------
Exceedingly nasty, as the clamping force now concentrates primarily on
three small areas rather than the entire clamping area. Use this
carefully, preferably with a fully adjustable clothespin as above, and
make quite sure by testing on yourself first that the ends of the brads
are NOT SHARP at all to avoid damage. Useful for those seeking more than a
'regular' clothespin may provide.
Several less extreme variations on the idea above are possible, all based
on disassembling the clothespin, filing several grooves in the wooden
clamping area, then reassembling the clothespin. Grooves and blunt 'teeth'
aid in preventing slippage, and feel a bit more harsh than flat wood.
Removing perhaps one-half of the side of the clamping area with a saw or
rasp provides two benefits, the same clamping pressure will be applied
over a smaller area, and double the number of clothespin tips may fitted
to the same bit of anatomy. Remember to round the edges slightly with
sandpaper to avoid splinters or other inadvertent injury. View from above
of the clamping end with the side removed.
---
/ |
/ |
/ |
| |
-------
spring
|------|
| |
| to |
| leg |
--------
#A design for testing the clamping force of clothespins:
Tradition demands testing on the web of one's hand, this is well and good
for impromptu buying and to get a subjective feel for the actual sensation
of a new design, but lacks precision and repeatability, qualities dear to
the heart of any engineer. Some thinking and a bit of experimentation
resulted in the following frame to directly and accurately measure
clamping force in clothespins. With minor modifications, it serves to
measure certain other sorts of spring-clamp pressure as well. I recognize
the source of error from measuring the force at the hole rather than the
clamping area, but it is a difference both trivial and consistent, and
thus may be ignored for comparative testing.
wingnut
------------------- piece of wood--|--------
________________________________ |
\__n__0________________________/ | clamp to tabletop
0 ---------------------piece of wood-|--------
__u__0________________________ bolt
/__|____________________________\
|
| -cord to spring scale
Select two boards longer than 8 inches, wider than 1 inch, and perhaps
1/4 inch thick, and place them together, lying flat on top of one another.
Drill a hole through both 5 inches or so from one end. Put a bolt through
this hole, and thread a wingnut on the bolt. Clamp the other end of the
boards firmly to a table or bench, slide one leg of the clothespin into
the tapered space between the two boards, then tighten the wingnut. This
frame will hold the clothespin for testing. Once the pin is held firmly in
place, use a thin cord attached to a spring tension scale [I use an
'anglers scale', accurate from 1 to 28 pounds, any 'pulling' scale with a
hook will do], and pull downwards against the clamping area until the
clothespin opens. This measurement will vary from the pull necessary
to just open the jaws to a higher reading before the jaws reach their
limit of travel. As mentioned, the 'standard' clothespins I have tested
fall somewhere in the region of 4-6 pounds, stretching for several days
may yield less than 3 pounds, and manual stretching of the clothespin
spring will swiftly reduce the pressure to 1 pounds or less. If one has
the time and interest, coding the various strength ranges of tested
clothespins for different tastes and applications is possible, either by
color or by filing groove patterns in the legs to select by touch. "Twenty
of the red ones for a start, I am in an evil mood tonight."
::ObBondageQuote::
"If you are losing your grip, perhaps you are not using the proper tools."
##################################################################
a missive from
"That grim, fierce, dominant fellow, grrr ... grr ... <grin>"
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