Subject: Perverts and Weirdos Digest, v.1 #9 (ROT13) Date: 5 Sep 88 06:35:40 GMT Perverts and Weirdos Digest, v.1 #9 (ROT13) Mon Sep 5 02:35:24 EDT 1988 WARNING: This digest may contain sexually explicit material. Do not decrypt it if you find this type of material offensive. To submit an article to P&W Digest, mail, DO NOT POST, your contribution to: pwdigest@alembic.UUCP. If your mailer is incapable of Internet-style addressing, try the following paths or consult the pathalias database: ...uunet!inco!alembic!pwdigest ...sun!sundc!inco!alembic!pwdigest If you're on the Arpanet, try: inco!alembic!pwdigest@uunet.uu.net It may also to be possible to 'R'eply to P&W Digest postings. If you include referenced text in a reply, please edit it as much as possible. Comments about the Digest which you don't want published should be addressed to mack@alembic.UUCP. Dave Mack, mack@alembic.UUCP ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Sep 88 03:28:22 EDT From: Robert & Susan Subject: Sexual politics Contact: robert1 > From: Steve > I'd be a hell of a lot more impressed with these most recent > PWD issues if some of the men were sitting there with their tits and > balls sore and in clamps while their women were writing so > triumphantly about the pleasure the women were getting at their > men's humiliation. I'd even be more impressed if the women who > were "in bondage" were doing the writing. (from Robert) Well, issues #2 and #8 have articles about men being tied up by women (written by the men, though). One of the letters in issue #6 has a postscript written by Susan to the other female, describing an activity she enjoyed. So the Digest isn't totally one-sided (haven't seen any really equivalent female domination posts -- maybe Sunny can contribute). It does seem that men enjoy writing more, and this holds true in the underground correspondence and meeting scene as well. Most of the contacts are arranged by men, and most of the women are doing it less out of their own desire and more out of a desire to please their men. I think the men who are into being dominated by women are far less likely to advertise the fact. I sometimes make Susan write to other couples, and have received a few letters from the slave rather than the master. > ...with the men drooling and sliming at they keyboards over the pain > and humiliation they are putting their female partners through... In our sex play, the "pain and humiliation" serve to enhance her ultimate experience. Like tickling, pain is a funny human phenomenon. A given, objective amount of stimulus (like psi of pressure from a nipple clamps) is perceived in radically different ways depending on her level of arousal. My enjoyment comes not form the idea that I am gurting her, but rather that under my control (control freely given up by her), she can reach plateaus of orgasm that she cannot experience any other way. Her moans are my reward. I gather from the tone of your letter, though, that nothing I say will convince you, so I have decided to give Susan an assignment for the evening that might "impress" you more than our previous contributions to this fine digest. (from Susan) dear steve, robert often puts me bondage with one hand free and makes me write to the other couples we talk to. my assignment tonight is to write a letter to you to answer 3 questions why i play bondage games with robert how i am dressed now how it makes me feel to write this letter my fantasy of the right man has been of someone strong. as a girl i dreamed of being carried of to the prince's castle and living happily ever after. when i got older i would read romance novels where the girl is always ravished by a handsome desperado. robert is my desperado. he makes me do things that feel naughty. on my own, i would feel guilty being so shamless, but in bondage the things we do are all his fault. that leaves me free to be wild. even though we use plugs and clamps etc. in our games, we are not into pain. when i am really excited, i enjoy a lot of stimulation on my nipples and labia and clit. if robert just walked up and clamped a clothes pin on my nipples i'd scream and belt him one. if he screwed me without foreplay, that would be rape. but with attention and preparation i enjoy the feelings i get from our toys. how am i dressed i am kneeling in robert's study in front of his desk. i am wearing a red ball gag, a black leather collar, an open cup bra, a spanking belt, and high heels that lock onto my ankles with small padlocks. my left hand is locked to my side by the spanking belt. my right hand is free so i can type this. robert syays i don't have to use capitols because i don't have both hands to type with. the spanking belt has a strap that runs through my crotch and it has a plug that is stuffed into my pussy. the belt is locked with 3 small padlocks. the collar has a chain that is locked to the handle on the desk. the ball gag is also locked with a small padlock. how do i feel i feel naughty and vulnerable and excited. this letter is supposed to be to you steve. i am pretending that you are in the room watching me type. you are my typing teacher and every time i make a mistake you spank my behind. the belt holds my cheeks apart and out so you can reach them with your cane. when i am done with the letter you will grade my work and tell robert how i did. if i do a good job he will take me into the bedroom and make love to me with his cock and tongue. if i do not do well he will make me sleep in the spanking belt with both hands locked to my sides. please tell robert that i did a good job susan (from Robert again) Pending your evaluation of Susan's letter, I have decided that Susan deserves a good "tongue-lashing", so that is what she will get (she has the most delicious pussy juice). She will keep her collar tonight, but she has clearly earned her freedom from the belt. After a good spanking, of course. Robert & Susan inco!alembic!robert1 [[ I would like to emphasize again that the Perverts & Weirdos Digest is *not* specifically for bondage. I publish what people submit. If I get a submission from a dominatrix, I would be perfectly willing to publish it. I would also like to emphasize that I am willing to publish fantasies, as well as factual articles. (For all I know, some of the things that have been published are fantasy.) This Digest is about the spectrum of human sexuality. --dm ]] ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Sep 88 03:29:47 EDT From: Robert & Susan Subject: Nipple and breast clamps Summary: a gripping tale Contact: robert1 We've mentioned in previous letters that we are into "nipple and breast torture." Torture here is definitely too strong a word, but that the way people in the "scene" talk about it. That's because the more accurate phrase "intense sensations that enhance the orgasmic experience" is a little unwieldy. Here are some questions we received, and some responses. > From: (private mail) > Is it possible to find out more details about the boards secured > with rubber bands (like dimensions?). We used 1 inch thick doweling, 6 inches long. You need four pieces. Cut notches in the end to hold the rubber straps: 6" ___________________________________________________________ |__ __| 1" __| |__ |__________________________________________________________| A pair is held together by a continuous rubber strap that fits through the notches in the ends of the dowels (the stronger and thicker the strap, the more pressure on the breast): ________________________ ___/________________________\__ |______________________________| | | \ Rubber | | \ Strap---> | Insert breast here | >--- Dowels Wraps | | / Around __|__________________________|_ / |______________________________| \________________________/ Attach one pair to each breast. The advantage of these devices is that they will hold effectively even for women with very small breasts (most commercial breast clamps use one device to hold both breast, so they have to be sized to fit larger women). > From: (private mail) > And what exactly is a japanese sewing clamp? I believe these were mentioned > in one of Robert and Susan's articles. A Brief introduction to Japanese Sewing Clamps, commonly used in America and W. Germany for the more interesting purpose of clamping nipples. Press here to open jaws | | V __------____ Tension on string / __________ --___ causes diagonals / / \ \ --__ \ ____ to increase the __ <_/ \ \ \ \ / \ / \__________\ \____ \ ,--./\__> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~() ___________> o>___) > o < __ <--- The business end \__/ _ / `/ / ^ \/ > Jaws held closed closing force on < \ / / __/ / \____/ by a small spring the jaws. The harder \ \___/__/___-- ___/ you pull, the harder \__ ____-- it grips its victim. ------ ^ | | Press here to open jaws The thing to note is that tension on the string causes the two diagonal hinges to exert a force that causes the jaws to close more tightly. The original function presumably is to provide a clamp for holding fabric where the gripping force is proportional to the weight on the clamp. For clamping nipples, it means that adding weights increases the pressure. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Sep 88 03:30:42 EDT From: Robert & Susan Subject: Digitized photos Contact: robert1 We've gotten very mixed responses to our photo postings. As we have stated previously, we will be glad to make the raw bits available to any one redistribution center. Obviously the nice people at alembic should have the right of first refusal. But should we keep posting the ASCII versions? Should I tailor these to be more visible on the printer or to retain as much information as possible? Should I make them wider so as to increase the resolution, or should I keep them at 80 columns so everyone can see. What format(s) would you like to see used? 8 bit greyscale, 1 bit halftoned? IFF? Sun raster format? (gulp) Macpaint? PostScript? Actually, postscript is easy, it's just that the output is so large (I can always reduce the resolution to make the postscript file any particular size, but then the images can be hard to see). Send in your votes to inco!alembic!robert1, or post them to the Digest. -- Robert & Susan inco!alembic!robert1 [[ I would be happy to make the photos available for anonymous uucp, but there are two problems. First, I'm horribly short of disk space. The photos would have to be stored in compressed form, and I'm not certain how many I have room for, since I don't know how large they would be after compression. Second, I'm concerned with the security aspects of anonymous uucp. If anyone out there has had experience running a system that allowed anonymous uucp, I'd appreciate any tips on making the system as secure as possible. (alembic is a Sun-2/120, running SunOS 3.2, if it matters.) If it seems possible to make the system sufficiently secure, I'll ask Robert to send me some of the pics, and I'll post a notice in the Digest giving information on how to download them. --dm ]] [[ PS: How about PBM format? -dm ]] ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Date: Sun, 4 Sep 88 14:03:49 EDT From: Anonymous Subject: restraint design Here are some instructions for making comfortable restraints (these are cuffs, built out of foam rubber and velcro, for wrists and ankles). Materials (per limb): 1. 18" - 22" length of 1" wide nylon webbing (this forms the main (load bearing) strap of the cuff) 2a. velcro, 3/4", fuzzy half, 1/2 the length of above strap 2b. velcro, 3/4", hook half, 1/2 the length of above strap (this is used to close the cuff around your victim's limb) 3. 1" wide Fastex buckle (this attaches the cuff to the immovable object) 4. 2" length of nylon webbing (this attaches the Fastex buckle to the main strap) 5. 2" wide piece of closed cell foam (length of velcro plus 1 inch) (this is the padding under the main strap) 6.rf thin black silk (this covers the foam to make it an artistic success.) 7. contact cement (used to glue the silk around the padding.) 8. waxed paper (essential during the gluing process.) 9. strong fabric cement (used to glue the main strap to the padding.) 10. sewing machine On Choosing Lengths Experiments indicate that that wrist straps should be about 18" long, and ankle straps about 26" (the foam padding extending half the length of the strap). It is be OK for the ends of the foam padding in the cuffs to overlap when they are actually worn. On Materials I cut up a 3/8" thick insulation pad designed for camping to get the closed cell foam. Fastex buckles are two piece plastic quick release buckles that seem (so far) strong enough for this application. One half has two springy prongs that fit inside the other half. They are cheap and you can get them at camping supply places. (Sorry, this is an upscale business: you can get them at expedition outfitters.) Construction 0. Cutting the webbing to specified lengths. Use a utility knife that has been heated (hot) with a propane torch, and cut on a piece of wood. This will nicely heat seal the ends of the webbing so it will not unravel. 1. Attach the Fastex buckle to the main strap. Thread half of the buckle onto the 2" length of webbing. Fold it over the main strap, at right angles, so that the free ends of the 2" strap have the main strap between them. It should be placed three quarters of the way from one end of the main strap. Sew it there, through all three layers of strap. Sew near all the edges, in a square, and sew the diagonals of the square. 2. Attach the velcro to the main strap. Place the main strap horizontally in front of you so the half of the main strap with the loop and buckle is on your left side. The loop and buckle should stick out upwards. Take the length of fuzzy velcro and place it along the main strap, centred, starting at about one quarter inch from the left end of the main strap. The loop with the Fastex buckle be just about in the middle of this velcro. The velcro should end just about halfway down the main strap. Sew the velcro down, all around, close to the edges. Turn the main strap over, so the loop and buckle are still on the left side (top over bottom). Take the length of annoying, scratchy, hook velcro, and place it along the main strap, centred, starting at about one quarter inch from the right end of the main strap. The hook velcro should end at just the place that the fuzzy velcro starts, although they will be on opposite sides of the main strap. Sew the velcro down. 3. Cover the padding foam with silk. Cut a rectangle of silk that will be large enough to wrap around the padding like a wrapping on a present. It should be roughly 3" longer than the padding, and 3" wider. For each gluing step, use a FRESH piece of wax paper as your work surface. This is an essential part of controlling glue migration. Place the rectangle of silk down horizontally, and place the padding foam on top of it, centred. Fold the horizontal edges of the silk over the back of the foam, and mark (dressmakers chalk will do, use it on the inside face of the silk) where the silk folds over the upper edge of the foam onto the back surface of the foam. YOU WILL NEVER APPLY GLUE PAST THIS LINE. Repeat for the vertical edges of the silk. This proceedure should end up with a rectangle inscribed in dressmakers chalk. All of the silk inside the rectangle will end up on the front face and the sides of the padding, so you want it to be pristine. The silk on the outside of the rectangle will lie on the back face of the padding, and will eventually be saturated with glue. Apply a thin layer of contact cement all over the back of the padding foam. Let it dry tacky (that's the way contact cement works!). Place the silk down on the wax paper. Place a fresh piece of wax paper on the silk, with its edge aligned with one of the horizontal lines of chalk, so that only the part of the silk on the glue side of the horizontal like is exposed. If you can, stick something over the wax paper to hold it down. Only one edge is exposed, all the others (and the important centre of the rectangle) are masked. Apply contact cement to the exposed horizontal edge of silk. Let it dry, then remove the wax paper masking. (The masking is used at this and other stages because contact cement has a tendency to form threads as you work with it. The threads will fall onto things you don't want them to fall onto, and that's bad.) Place the padding (glue side up) centered onto the silk. Fold the edge of the silk with the glue up over the back of the foam, and press it down. Do it carefully, as you only get one chance. Repeat the above steps, for the other edges. You will be rewarded with beautiful cuffs. When this is all done, you should end up with a nice covered piece of foam. The front face (that was always down during the gluing process) and the sides should all be nice and perfectly clean. The back will look like hell, with all the folds and glue. Stay cool. 4. Glue the padding to the main strap. Place the padding, nice face down, horizontally. Apply fabric glue (similar to contact cement, but with more ability to glue irregular surfaces) in a stripe down the centre of the back of the padding. Start the stripe about one half inch from the left edge, and continue it all the way to the right edge. It should be centered along the padding, and as wide as the main strap. (You will be applying the glue over the silk that has been folded back and glued.) Place the main strap in front of you, horizontally, with the fuzzy velcro on the left bottom, and the loop with the Fastex buckle also on the left, pointing down. Apply fabric cement from the left edge of the strap all the way to one half inch before the start of the velcro hooks. Let both dry, according to the instructions for the glue. Glue the strap to the padding. The strap should start one half inch from the left end of the padding. The padding should make it to just about one half inch from the velcro hooks (well, hey, that's as far as the glue went.) You should end up with a nylon strap, with a big silk covered pad on one half. In the middle of that pad, the loop with the Fastex buckle should be attached. 5. Attaching to immovable objects. You should have as much 1" nylon webbing as you need to connect the cuffs to your fixed object. Attach one end of the "leash" to the object, and loop the other end through the part of the Fastex buckle that contains the length adjustment stuff. The Fastex buckles will attach the cuffs to the leashes with a nice, adjustable, quick release kind of action. +-- webbing | +-- Velcro +-- Velcro (other side) v | | +---------------v-----------------------v-----------------------+ |+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++................................| |+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++................................| +---------------------------------------------------------------+ | | <-- loop +| |+ |+----+| +______+ | | \ / | | <-- buckle / \ +------+ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------ End of Perverts and Weirdos Digest ************************ -------